So what are you waiting for? It’s time to roll up your sleeves and dive into the wonderful world of homegrown persimmons. Let’s get started!
Benefits of Homegrown Persimmons
Before outlining specifics on how to grow persimmons, it helps to understand why you should bother in the first place. Here are the top advantages of harvesting homegrown persimmons versus store-bought:
- Better flavor – Vine-ripened fruits allowed to fully mature on the tree develop a rich, honey-like sweetness unrivaled by early picked commercial persimmons.
- Improved nutrition – Persimmons allowed to ripen naturally contain higher levels of antioxidants, vitamins (A, C & E) and minerals (Potassium, Phosphorus).
- No chemicals – Homegrown persimmons are organic without any pesticide residues when cultivated properly.
- Productivity – Just one mature tree can yield over 100 pounds of ripe fruit each season once established.
- Versatility – Persimmons work well raw, baked, dried or frozen for year-round enjoyment.
- Cost savings – Avoid paying premium prices at the grocery store and enjoy months of free persimmons.
- Convenience – Simply walk outside to harvest fresh persimmons instead of driving to the store.
- Environmentally sustainable – Growing your own fruit eliminates transportation emissions and plastic packaging waste.
Beyond practical benefits, there is also a great sense of personal pride and accomplishment from nurturing your own fruit from seedling to harvest. The aroma and colors of the autumn persimmon harvest create an spectacular display right outside your door.
Requirements for Growing Persimmons
Before purchasing plants or breaking ground, it is important to understand the growing requirements for healthy, productive persimmon trees. This ensures you can provide suitable climatic conditions and proper care.
Climate Considerations
Persimmon trees thrive best under the following general climate conditions:
- Hardiness Zone: 5-9
- Chill Hours: 100-800 hours below 45°F
- Temperature Range: 0°F to 105°F
- Peak Heat Threshold: 100 hours per year above 95°F
- Sunlight Hours: Full sun – minimum 8 hours direct light daily
- Humidity Range: 60-90% relative humidity
- Rainfall Needs: 30-55 inches annually
- Soil Drainage: Well-draining soil imperative
This makes persimmons well suited for most regions except for the hottest southern zones or northernmost states with extremely frigid winters. However, certain cold hardy cultivars allow persimmon cultivation even in USDA Zone 4.
If your local climate meets these parameters, you can likely grow productive persimmon trees successfully. Just be sure to select varieties specifically intended for your hardiness zone.
Soil Requirements
While adaptable to various soil types given proper amendments, persimmons prefer loamy, sandy or clay loam soil. Here are some more specific soil standards:
- Drainage: Exceptional – water must not pool on surface or become compacted
- pH range: 5.5 to 7.5 pH
- Organic matter: 2-5% or more
- Nutrient levels: Medium fertility requirements
- Soil prep: Mix in aged compost/manure before planting new trees
- Raised beds: Recommended for denser or poorly-drained native soil
Test your soil 6-12 months before planting persimmon trees to address any deficiencies in nutrients, drainage capacity or pH levels.
Sunlight Parameters
Unlike some fruit trees, persimmons will not tolerate anything less than full sunlight:
- Require absolute minimum of 6 hours direct sun daily. 8+ hours ideal.
- Western exposures receive most intense sunlight.
- Southern exposures also work well.
- Even northern exposures work as long as the 6 hour sun minimum is satisfied.
- Morning sun is most valuable to dry dew from leaves, reducing disease risk.
- Shade drastically reduces fruit production and quality.
Carefully assess sunlight patterns across your property during growing season before selecting planting sites for persimmon trees. Monitor both early morning and late afternoon shade that may get overlooked at midday.
If no suitable sunny spots exist, consider removing vegetation that may be obstructing sunlight. In climates with intense summer sun, partial shading from nearby deciduous trees is acceptable given proper spacing.
Picking the Perfect Persimmon Variety
With over 400 diverse persimmon species and cultivars to choose from, the options can get overwhelming for new growers. Here is an overview of the characteristics of the two primary persimmon types to help narrow your choices:
American Persimmons
This cold-hardy group thrives across most of the continental United States. Key traits include:
- Native range: Eastern U.S. from Connecticut to Florida. Some Texas natives.
- Flavor: Sweet, spicy, tropical
- Fruit size: Small-medium. 1-2 inches diameter.
- Texture: Soft, gelatinous when ripe
- Harvest timing: October-November
- Popular varieties: Early Golden, John Rick, Miller
- Hardiness range: Withstands -20°F winter temps.
- Good pollinators needed for best fruit set
These hardy, low-maintenance American persimmons tolerate most soils, resist pests naturally, and produce abundant fruits perfect for fresh eating, baking, jams or drying into fruit leathers.
Asian Persimmons
While less cold tolerant than American counterparts, Asian persimmons offer larger fruits:
- Native Origin: Eastern Asia – Japan and China
- Flavor profile: Sweet, mild, subtle
- Fruit size: Medium to very large
- Flesh texture: Smooth, crisp when ripe
- Seasonality: September through December
- Leading varieties: Fuyu, Jiro, Ichi Ki Kei Jiro
- Hardiness range: Withstand temps to 0°F-5°F
- Most are self-pollinating so even one tree bears heavily.
Popular gently sweet Asian persimmons lack tannins so they can be eaten while still firm. They hold well on chilled trees late into fall. Their larger size also makes them a natural for holiday centerpieces and table decor.
Consider your local winter low temps, available space, and intended use when selecting among the hundreds of persimmon varieties to choose one best suited to your growing conditions and tastes.
Preparing to Plant Persimmon Trees
Advance preparation before introducing persimmon trees will give them the best start:
Arranging Infrastructure
Since persimmon trees can grow over 25 feet tall and wide, consider logistics like:
- Sunlight obstruction from future growth onto gardens, buildings or solar panels
- Access around trees for picking fruit, pruning or other orchard tasks
- Proximity to power lines both above and underground
- Spacing for machinery like lawnmowers or tractors to pass between trees if necessary
- Placement central to water irrigation main lines
- Incorporation into existing windbreak treelines
Map out tree spacing for both current plans and future additions. Arrange irrigation lines, electrical conduits that may one day need installing, or structures like storage sheds around intended persimmon tree sites in advance if possible.
Preparing the Soil
Ideally amend planting sites a full season ahead by:
- Testing soil pH and nutrient levels
- Adjusting pH with lime or sulfur depending on test results
- Digging in copious amounts of aged compost, rotted manure
- Tilling in organic material to depth of at least 18 inches
- Installing drainage infrastructure like french drains for excessively compact soils
This allows the amendments to fully integrate over an entire growing cycle.
If pre-amending is not feasible, augmenting the backfill soil during planting also works.
Sourcing Persimmon Trees
Order young grafted persimmon trees suited specifically for your growing zone from reputable nurseries the autumn or early winter before your intended spring planting. This ensures desired varieties are not sold out later in peak season.
Many state university agricultural extensions also conduct persimmon variety trials and offer the best performers at very affordable rates. These are great options typically better adapted to local conditions.
Whether buying retail or wholesale, inspect trees upon delivery for:
- Damage to graft unions, bark or branches
- Sufficiently developed root system
- Signs of desiccation
- Disease, pests like crown galls or scale
Reject any compromised trees since problems often compound after planting.
Planting Persimmon Trees
Carefully planting young persimmon trees provides them energy to focus on developing strong root systems rather than recovering from transplant shock. Here is the playbook for success:
When to Plant Persimmon Trees
Spring planting windows range from region to region, but target periods when soil temperatures warm above 60°F yet before bud break occurs. This typically falls over a month period from mid March-May.
Vigorous upward growth right after planting makes young trees susceptible to toppling in winds. Avoid planting during summer rainy seasons if possible for reduced disease risk.
Fall planting from early September through November also works for balled-and-burlapped or containerized stock in zones 7-9 given no extreme early cold snaps.
Check with local nurseries regarding specific recommended spring and fall windows for your microclimate.
Where to Plant Persimmon Trees
Seek out sunny planting sites with excellent airflow. Avoid frost pockets, valleys or canyon bottoms prone to colder descending air that may damage buds during bloom.
Sloped locations generally provide better drainage while flat fields make mowing between trees simpler over time.
Soil characteristics trump most site selection factors – remember persimmons need consistently moist but well-aerated soil. Dig test holes the autumn before planting to uncover potential percolation issues needing remediation beforehand.
Planting Process
Follow this systematic planting process for success:
- Dig wide hole at least twice as wide as root ball with tapered sloping sides to promote horizontal root growth
- Score any root ball sides/bottoms if tightly bound or root curving visible
- Place tree centered atop firm soil mound at proper depth so root flare is exposed at grade
- Backfill half of hole with native soil, watering to settle, eliminating any air pockets
- Ensure tree stands vertically adjusting position as necessary while backfilling remainder of hole
- Create earthen watering berm 2-3 inches tall around perimeter of hole
- Spread 2-4 inch organic mulch layer covering root zone outwards from trunk
- Drive supporting stake outside root ball if winds are problematic until established
- Prune any minor broken branches using clean bypass pruners
- Water thoroughly at base until soil is fully saturated without runoff
This comprehensive but critical process gives young persimmon trees an ideal start to settle quickly without transplant shock so they focus on growing strong and deep roots.
Caring for Persimmon Trees
The work does not end once planted – like any orchard crop, persimmon trees need consistent care and maintenance for optimal health and productivity. Let’s explore best practices over their lifespan:
Ongoing Irrigation
Continue regular deep watering over the entire first growing season until new trees establish extensive root networks. This may require:
- 10-15 gallons weekly for each young tree depending on soil type
- More during summer’s peak water demand period
- Less in humid climates while avoiding waterlogged soil
As trees mature with spreading root zones after a few seasons, water needs are less constant:
- Monitor soil moisture below mulch layer before watering
- Average 1-2 inches of rainfall equivalent weekly
- Reduce irrigation somewhat once fruits start ripening
- Resume deep watering after harvest to prep for dormancy
Always allow soil to mostly dry out between waterings since persimmons are prone to root diseases if overwatered.
Ongoing Fertilization
Unlike other fruit trees, persimmons are light feeders – little supplemental fertilization is needed in fertile loam soils beyond annual doses of compost worked into mulch layers. Have soil tested every 2-3 years to monitor macronutrient and micronutrient levels.
General organic fertilizer guidelines:
Tree Age | Fertilizer Recommendations |
---|---|
First year | None |
2nd year | 3 oz 10-10-10 in spring |
3rd year onward | 5 oz 10-10-10 in early spring + light summer side dressing of compost |
Monitor growth rates and leaf color each season and reduce applications if excessive vegetative expansion occurs rather than fruit production. Keep grass clippings, fall leaves cleared from root zones to avoid nitrogen spikes.
Micronutrients are best applied as liquid foliar feeds containing zinc, boron, manganese or iron if soil testing indicates low levels rather than heavy granular applications.
Year-Round Mulching
Maintaining 3-6 inches of coarse, organic mulch across root zones serves multiple functions:
- Conserves soil moisture reducing water needs
- Moderates soil temperatures protecting surface roots
- Suppresses competing weeds
- Adds organic matter as it decomposes
- May reduce soil erosion on slopes
- Insulates soil from temperature swings
Replenish mulch layers annually as material decomposes or settles over time. If growth seems excessive, reduce mulch depths since persimmons should not become dependent on it.
Timely Pruning
Unlike most fruit trees, avoid heavy pruning at planting time – allow newly established trees to focus on root and canopy development initial years unless basal suckers appear.
Once established, target late winter for maintenance pruning removing:
- Any diseased or damaged branches
- Crossing trunks/branches
- Inward-facing branches
- Select interior branches for outward light penetration
- Water sprouts from rootstock below graft unions
Retain scaffold framework of primary branches while eliminating up to 30% of new growth to encourage fruit buds. Paint any cuts over 1 inch diameter to prevent disease entry.
Persimmon trees take well to training along walls, fences or trellises given hearty branching structure and adaptability to various forms. Alternatively, allow trees to grow into their natural broad, open habit requiring less annual pruning.
Dealing with Pests/Diseases in Persimmons
Luckily, most persimmon varieties resist serious pest and disease issues without much intervention:
Common Persimmon Pests
Aphids – Control by blasting off with a jet of water. Insecticidal soap or neem oil also effective if severe leaf curling occurs. Attract ladybugs to feast on them.
Spider Mites – Spot treat affected areas with insecticidal soap sprays. Promote beneficial predatory mite population with companion plants like daisies or cosmos around trees.
Scale Insects – Prune off isolated colonies. Use horticultural oils or systemic antibiotics against heavy encrustations suffocating branches.
Oriental Fruit Moth – Monitor worm entry holes in ripening fruit. Remove dropped and overripe fruits quickly to eliminate breeding grounds. Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) products contain natural bacteria deadly to larvae. Hang pheromone traps in branches to capture male moths during peak summer activity reducing future populations.
Deer – Exclude with flexible mesh or electric fencing around orchard blocks if browsing damage becomes problematic. Individual tree cages also work but make harvests and maintenance more difficult long-term.
Common Persimmon Diseases
Persimmon trees lose their leaves each autumn so disease prevention focuses mostly around proper site selection and promoting vigorous growth. However, the most common diseases include:
Anthracnose – Water avoidance is critical. Promote airflow circulation within canopy through regular pruning. Apply copper-based fungicides before bud break in early spring targeting overwintering spore colonies.
Root Rot – Improve drainage immediately. Drench soil with fungicides containing trichoderma strains around affected trees to outcompete pathogens.
Crown Gall – Sterilize pruner blades frequently when removing tumorous growths on trunks or branches. Only prune during dry seasons to prevent spreading through open cuts.
Cankers – Keep trees healthy with balanced irrigation and nutrition to reduce vulnerability. Promote rapid wound callusing after necessary branch pruning.
Overall, selecting resistant American persimmon varieties provides a level of built-in disease protection. But proper cultural controls give Asian types plenty of protection too.
Harvesting Perfect Persimmons
Learning optimal harvest timing and methods allows fully ripe persimmons that east at peak flavor. Here is a harvest primer:
When to Pick Persimmons
Harvesting too early yields inedibly astringent fruits. Be patient and wait for full color change signalling ripeness before picking:
- Fruits turn brilliant orange when ripe and ready
- Should feel slightly soft, akin to peaches or tomatoes
- Use care when testing softness to avoid bruising
- Leaf color change a less reliable indicator
- Nighttime temperatures into the 20’s quicken ripening
Harvest fruits every 3-4 days as they ripen over a 2-3 week window rather than all at once. Summer pruning and fertilization practices also impact ripeness timing.
Gathering Ripe Fruits
When fruits pass ripeness tests:
- Gently lift and clip fruits off rather than pulling/twisting
- Keep fingernail on stem when clipping to avoid dropping
- Use curved blade harvesting knife for cleaner cuts
- Take care around sharp twigs and branches
- Have padded picking basket/ladder handy to prevent bruises
- Leave any damaged or split fruits behind to reduce disease risks
Handle ripe fruits very delicately to avoid internal flesh bruising that shortens storage abilities. Select fully ripe fruits first before immature ones if freezing night loom.
Post Harvest Care
Ripe persimmons are highly perishable – process immediately upon picking:
- Store fresh ripe fruits short-term at room temp if eating within 2 days
- Refrigeration prolongs shelf life up to 2 weeks
- Return chilled fruits to room temp before serving raw for best texture
- Freeze excess sliced fruits in airtight containers
- Puree and freeze fruits for use in baking
- Dehydrate sliced persimmons at 115° for 12-24 hours until leathery
- Repackage dried fruits in airtight containers for winter snacking
While persimmons store acceptably, their flavor and nutrition declines over time. Enjoy as soon after harvest as possible.
Avoiding Half-Ripe Fruits
Waiting until fruits reach jelly-soft plumpness prevents the dreaded mouth puckering caused by tannins in underripe fruits:
- Persimmon tannins must fully dilute/convert to sugars before picking
- Frost accelerates breakdown but at expense of some flesh quality
- Light frosts ARE helpful reducing astringency in some crisp varieties like Fuyu
- Disguise hard fruits in baked goods like persimmon breads or cookies
- Allow almost overripe fallen fruits to soften indoors to edibility
While Japanese persimmon varieties lack tannins, most American persimmons need extended vine ripening for palatability fresh off the tree.
Troubleshooting Persimmon Tree Issues
While relatively problem-free, persimmon trees can occasionally suffer setbacks:
Leaf Drop Troubleshooting
Premature persimmon leaf drop arises from:
- Insufficient irrigation during hot/dry spells
- Overwatering leading to root suffocation
- Nutrient deficiencies disrupting leaf function
- Diseases like verticillium wilt plugging vascular tissues
Remedy by improving growing conditions and spraying kelp extract to encourage leaf regeneration.
Lack of Fruiting Solutions
Multiple factors cause poor fruit set:
- Inadequate cross-pollination between varietals – supplement bees or hand pollination during bloom
- Excess nitrogen fertilization driving vegetative growth over fruits – reduce applications
- Overpruning removed fruiting spurs and buds – avoid summer pruning
- Damage from late spring frosts or drought interrupting pollination
- Simply juvenility – Persimmon trees generally bear in year 4-7 from planting
Adjust cultivation practices to stress fruiting over vigor. Grafting separate varietals onto one rootstock ensures ample pollination.
Remedying Fruit Splitting
Ripe persimmon fruits readily split from:
- Excessive soil moisture from heavy rains or overwatering
- High daytime/low night temperatures
- Delayed harvesting once fully ripe exacerbates splitting
Provide even irrigation and harvest fruits as soon as internal seeds become visible through skins to avoid splitting open on the limbs.
Enjoy Bountiful Backyard Persimmon Harvests
We hope this detailed persimmon growing overview paves the way for bountiful backyard harvests for years to come. While persimmon cultivation does require some diligence, the results are sweet – literally. Bite into a ripe homegrown persimmon still warm from the autumn sunshine and experience bliss. That first fruit is only the beginning of seasonal enjoyment. Soon your pantry will brim with delicious persimmons in every form imaginable. So get planting! Your tastebuds will thank you.